Matchbook Gift Tags

Minimizing waste is something I try to focus on in all areas of my life and there is no time of the year more wasteful than the holidays. We buy wrapping paper, bows, tape, cards and gift tags only to throw them away after Christmas morning. Make a goal this year to challenge how you are wrapping and tagging gifts. If you get creative you'll find there are a lot of ways to reduce you waste. 

One way you can do this is with reusable gift tags. You can make or buy chalkboard tags and use them over and over each year. This year I decided to make gift tags from vintage 1950's matchbooks I found on ebay. The set I bought features beautiful images of Christmas customs from around the world. 

Making a matchbook into a gift tag is really easy. Start by tying a piece of twine or ribbon around the top (fold) of the matchbook.

Next, cut a Post It note to size to fit the back of the matchbook - the part where the strike strip is. Stick the Post it to the top of the back and tuck the unattached end of the Post It into the matchbook to close it. Finally, add a To and From label by hand or using a stamp if your handwriting is terrible like mine. When you are done, you have an adorable, reusable gift tag.

Infinity Scarf from a Pleated Skirt

The 80s were famous for plaid, especially in the form of long, bulky, pleated wool skirts. Plaid is all the rage again, but let's hope those skirts remain a thing of the past. There are however a few great things about those ridiculous skirts. First, the plaid patterns are typically pretty classic and still look modern today. Second, when you cut out the pleats they have miles of usable fabric. 

If you've been on Pintrest at all lately, you've likely seen lots of bulky, plaid infinity scarves like this one. 

The first time I cut one on these skirts open I realized it could make my own version of this infinity scarf. For my first attempt, I chose an acrylic blend in a classic Christmas plaid. I love the way it turned out and have been getting lots of compliments when I wear it.

If you'd like to make your own, check out the project steps below.

Project Steps

Step 1: First, you need to find a pleated skirt. You can find these skirts at thrift stores in 100% wool or acrylic blends. When selecting your skirt keep in mind your ability to tolerate wool. Even if you felt the skirt by machine washing and drying it hot, it may still be a little itchy. You are looking for something that when you stretch the bottom end to end (the unpleated part) will be at least 4 - 5 feet across. Here's an example.

Step 2: Once you have your skirt, wash and dry it. For 100% wool I like to felt the skirt a bit by machine washing and drying it hot to make it denser and softer. This will shrink the fabric somewhat so make sure you have a wide enough section between the bottom of the skirt and the pleats before felting.

Once your skirt is washed, cut it up. Start by cutting around the top of the skirt just below where the stitching ends for the pleats. When you're done you should have a large circle of fabric.

Step 3: There will likely be at least two seams in the skirt. If there is more than one seam, look at each one and determine which seam is smallest and has the two sides of the fabric pattern lined up best. You want to leave the seam that looks best and cut the one that doesn't look quite as good.Cut straight up the least attractive seam to open up the circle into one long piece. If you only had one seam you will need to cut that one open. 

Step 4: Next, cut open the hem. I like to leave use the fabric in the hem and typically cut along the threads to open it. Be careful not to cut the fabric, only the threads. 

Step 5: Iron the long piece of fabric to prepare for sewing it. If you cut open the hems and want to use the fabric in them, be sure to press the seam where the hem was flat. It may help to use a spray bottle with water for this step. 

Once you have the piece ironed, lay it out on a long table and trim the uneven side of the fabric straight. This is typically the site where you cut just below the pleats. You want the fabric to be the same width for the entire piece. I find it easiest to do this by folding the fabric lengthwise with the right sides together and using the straight edge of the hem as a guide. If you have a rotary cutter and self-healing mat it use it for this step. 

Step 6: If your fabric is already right sides together lengthwise, you are good to go. If not, fold the fabric in half along the longest side keeping the right sides together. Line up the two sides and pin the entire length of the piece.

Step 7: Once pinned, sew along the long side of the entire piece leaving about 1/4 inch of seam allowance. When you are done you should have a tube of fabric. Turn the tube right side out. 

Step 8: Now that the tube is right side out you need to iron it flat. Start by ironing the seam side. Using your thumb and forefinger, roll the edge with the seam until you can see the stitches and then press it flat. 

After pressing along the seam for a small section, go back, smooth the piece and press the side opposite the seam.

Step 9: When the entire length is pressed is should really start to look like a long scarf. Trim the two ends of the piece if either of them are not straight. Then take one end and fold the raw edges inside and press. The picture below shows what it would look like if it was inside out.

Step 10: With your piece right side out take the unfinished end and stuff it into the finished end (folded and ironed end from the previous step). You want about a half inch section of the unfinished end inside the finished end. Make sure there isn't a twist in your scarf, you want a continuous loop.

Straighten the two pieces out keeping one tucked inside the other, and line up the plaid as much as possible. Then pin the two pieces of the join together making sure to pin all the way through. 

Step 11: Flip the pinned join over to make sure there isn't an bunching of the fabric on the back side. 

Step 12: Sew along the join as close to the folded and pressed end as possible. Check as you go to make sure the sides haven't come untucked and that you are sewing through both ends of the fabric. 

Step 13: Press the new seam if necessary then try it on and enjoy!